Unearthing a Whiskey Revolution in the Depths of Denver: The Rise of Kernza
Step into the dimly lit realm of Denver Distillery, tucked away below the vibrant South Broadway scene. Here, in a cool and dusky cellar that seems a world away from the city’s bustle, a secret is maturing. The treasury? A small batch of whiskey, patiently aging, its existence heralded by a simple note in marker from last April.
A Sneak Peek Into the Barrel’s Treasures
One balmy afternoon, the distillery’s General Manager, Chris Anderson-Tarver, armed with just a hammer and a tool known as a barrel thief, ventures to extract and unveil the potion’s progress. The whiskey, holding a deceptively pale amber hue, awaits his discerning senses in a snifter.
The Enigmatic Aroma of Innovation
“This great aroma,” he declares with an air of excitement barely contained within the cellar walls. A symphony of scents begins to rise: a fruity whisper, a whisper of nuttiness, and a subtle earthiness—all intertwined with a rich, buttery undertone.
One-of-a-Kind: The Kernza-Based Whiskey
The anticipation is palpable. Unlike the distillery’s traditional offerings, this distinct barrel is brewing a rarity—the first Kernza-based whiskey in Colorado. It’s a bold divergence from the conventional wheat and rye spirits that usually hallmark the Denver Distillery.
Kernza: The Green Promise in a Grain
In the chase for climate-friendly innovations, Anderson-Tarver has turned his expertise to Kernza. This new wonder grain isn’t merely a symbol of environmental sustainability; it’s a daring shot at pioneering a novel, eco-conscious spirit.
While the barrel’s contents remain a tender few months old—youthful in the grand timeline of whiskey maturation—the sampling ritual every few weeks whispers tales of progress. As Anderson-Tarver has discovered, Kernza doesn’t just offer green credentials—it brings a striking layer of flavor to the table.
Flavors Unfolding: A Connoisseur’s Perspective
“Oh yeah, this is going to be so good,” he muses after a sip, eyes brightening as he describes the emerging hints of Fig Newton and raisin playing on the palate. The liquor, though still in its formative stages, promises a lush and intricate tapestry of taste.
The Mystery of Maturity: Kernza Whiskey’s Journey
Anderson-Tarver, seasoned in the art of distillation, finds himself at a juncture of unknowns with Kernza whiskey. The precise timeline to the perfect maturation is a question hanging in the cool air of the cellar, answered only in time by the barrel’s cryptic whispers.
The Allure of Kernza: An Agricultural Revolution
Born from the prairies of western Asia and now found amidst the American West, intermediate wheatgrass (IWG) carries within it the potential of an agricultural game-changer. It’s the plant that would one day bear the exciting mantle of Kernza after decades of painstaking research aimed at revolutionizing how we grow our grains.
Regenerative Agriculture: Kernza’s Core
Long before the name Kernza was coined, researchers at the Land Institute recognized the potential of IWG to transform our fields. Their efforts were not just to create a marketable commodity but also to harness IWG’s drought resilience and deep-rooting nature that enriches soils and wards off erosion.
Crucially, Kernza flourishes yearly without reseeding—the labor and diesel savings are clear cut, and the environmental perks of reduced tillage are a game-changer.
Hana Fancher on Kernza: A Paradigm Shift
“It’s a huge shift in paradigm,” explains Hana Fancher, market stewardship specialist at the Land Institute. She underscores the monumental shift from resource-intensive annual crops to Kernza’s perennial reliability that slashes labor and nourishes the land.
Commercialisation Challenges: Kernza’s Slow Rise
Despite its commercial infancy and a cautious reception from farmers, acres of Kernza now dot the landscape, heralding a green future. With 4,000 acres nationwide and tenuous roots in dry Colorado, pioneers like farmer and maltster Todd Olander play an instrumental role in testing Kernza’s viability.
Olander’s Leap of Faith: Trialing Kernza
Olander, looking ahead to a more sustainable horizon, dedicates a small cradle of his land to Kernza. Despite a setback in harvest due to timing, he beholds encouraging signs of green as Kernza takes to the Colorado soil.
The Market Hurdles: Kernza’s Grain-size Challenge
Beneath its promise, Kernza poses practical deterrents for growers: low yields, tiny grains making cleaning a chore, and the premium price stamp without a firm market foothold. However, as Fancher posits, its environmental promise—particularly in carbon sequestration—paints a hopeful picture for the grain’s future.
A Nationwide Study: USDA and the Pursuit of Kernza Knowledge
The spark of Kernza has reached the very echelons of the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). Driven by urgency to secure a sustainable food system, the USDA launches a sweeping, nationwide investigation into Kernza, with Colorado researchers playing a key role.
Peter Kleinman and the Pioneering USDA Study
Peter Kleinman spearheads the Colorado leg of this uncharted journey into Kernza. The USDA team nurtures six acres of the grain, with grand ambitions to revolutionize American agriculture through the research.
Aligning Agriculture with Kernza’s Sustainability
Grace Miner, USDA Research Agronomist, envisions an altered agricultural landscape powered by perennial crops like Kernza, offering both soil rejuvenation and economic resilience for farmers.
High Hopes for Kernza: Where Brewing Meets Sustainability
Deemed a potential linchpin for change, Kernza finds allies in Colorado’s vibrant craft brewing and distilling scene. From the lab to the tap, researchers anticipate Kernza’s role in catalyzing a more sustainable production system.
Building a Thirst for Change: Kernza in Craft Breweries & Distilleries
As a trailblazer in sustainable brewing, Marni Wahlquist of Odell Brewing Company’s Sloan’s Lake Brewhouse translates her excitement for Kernza’s green credentials into tangible libations, offering curious drinkers a taste of change.
From Whiskey Barrels to Beer Taps
While Anderson-Tarver’s whiskey must bide its time to achieve perfection, Wahlquist’s Kernza hazy IPA and lager are already making a splash in the market. Yet it’s the flavors, more than the story, that draw beer aficionados in.
Olander’s Optimism: A Malthouse Set for Kernza
Olander, undeterred by the technical challenges of matching tiny Kernza grains to his malting equipment, remains steadfast in his belief that the burgeoning network of Colorado breweries and distilleries will carve out a space for Kernza.
Anderson-Tarver’s Verdict: Patience for a Kernza Future
Back at Denver Distillery, Anderson-Tarver remains captivated by Kernza’s promise, anticipating the day it becomes a staple in local sustainable distilling. The taste, above all, keeps the vision of a Kernza whiskey future alive.
And so, in the heart of Denver, a quiet revolution ferments, promising not only a vibrant addition to the liquor cabinet but also a cornerstone in the march towards an eco-conscious tomorrow.
I absolutely loved learning about Colorado’s innovative eco-friendly beer scene in this article, particularly how Kernza, a perennial grain, is revolutionizing sustainable brewing. It’s refreshing to see such passionate commitment to the environment in every sip of these unique Colorado brews.