The Rise of Cask Lager: A Surprising Delight for Beer Enthusiasts
When you think of bottom-fermented beer served in the British ale tradition, lager might not be the first thing that comes to mind. However, the resurgence of interest in lager might just be the catalyst needed to pique the curiosity of beer enthusiasts worldwide.
Unexpected Delights: Embracing the Cask Lager Experience
Picture this: you walk into a pub, unsure of what to order, and unexpectedly find yourself asking for a cask lager. That’s exactly what happened to me at Bulls Head Public House in Lititz, Pennsylvania. I’ll be honest—I didn’t even know I wanted it until that moment. Bulls Head is renowned for its authentic British-style cask ale, and while I typically lean towards traditional ale styles, the idea of a pale lager from Scotland didn’t immediately thrill me. Nonetheless, one sip of the Harviestoun Schiehallion Lager and I was pleasantly surprised. It just made sense.
The accolades for Schiehallion in Britain, where it was named Champion Cask Beer at the Society of Independent Brewers Awards (SIBA) in 2022, speak volumes about the potential of cask lagers. Despite the ebb and flow of cask lagers over the years, Schiehallion, first brewed for cask service in 1994, has remained a steadfast, relevant, and highly-praised choice.
Unveiling the Allure of Cask Lager
Upon reflection, my newfound appreciation for cask lager shouldn’t have been a surprise. The familiarity of Franconian lager, with its resemblance to real ale in some aspects, had already captivated me. The natural carbonation in traditional kellerbier and zwickelbier, akin to that of British cask ale, lays the groundwork for a compelling similarity.
John McIntosh, owner and brewer at Acopon Brewing in Texas, attests to the appeal of such carbonation. While the brewery primarily specializes in British-style ales, it has also embraced the presence of lagers on the cask menu. According to McIntosh, the finer bubble size and softer mouthfeel resulting from natural carbonation accentuate the malt sweetness and showcase the hop aromatics—a testament to the unique experience cask lagers offer.
Master brewer Amy Cockburn from Harviestoun in Scotland further enhances this sentiment, emphasizing how the yeast’s presence creates a softer carbonation that allows the intense characters from hops and yeast to shine through, with the grapefruit character becoming even more prominent in the cask.
True to the cask-ale tradition, cask lagers are unpasteurized and continue to evolve post-brewing, a key characteristic of “real lager” as defined by Britain’s Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA). The live and unpredictable nature of cask conditioning is something that many brewers, like Sam Masotto from Bonn Place in Pennsylvania, embrace wholeheartedly.
Crafting Cask Lager: A Blend of Tradition and Innovation
Just as with cask ale, the process of brewing cask lager follows a similar initial brewing procedure, but diverges during fermentation and conditioning. The use of fermentables and/or yeast additions, such as kräusen, sugar, or a bit of yeast, facilitates the continuation of fermentation within the cask.
Notable establishments like Bonn Place and von Trapp Brewery have their own unique approaches to crafting cask lager. For example, Bonn Place’s preference is to introduce unfermented wort to the cask to initiate the secondary fermentation, followed by further lagering in the casks. Conversely, von Trapp Brewery follows a six-week lagering process, kräusening the cask with a small amount of actively fermenting wort and allowing for refermentation and diacetyl reabsorption prior to chilling for service.
Dispensing casked lager comes with its own set of considerations, from using gravity cask setups to beer engines, with the aim of serving the beer at an optimal temperature range to maximize its appeal to a wider audience.
Embracing the Diversity of Cask Lager Styles
The versatility of cask lager extends to the various styles that can be served in this format, with a general inclination to avoid high carbonation styles like pilsner and schwarzbier. Instead, Czech-style lagers, bocks, and Franconian kellerbier styles are often sought after.
However, it’s important to note that the success of cask lager isn’t guaranteed solely by the format; the quality and craftsmanship of the beer itself remain paramount. The collaboration between Machine House Brewery and Lowercase in crafting cask lager stands as a testament to the potential for excellence in this niche, showcasing the best of both cask and lager brewing expertise.
While cask beer has faced challenges in both the United States and its homeland, the recent surge in craft lager popularity presents an opportunity to reignite interest in both cask service and lager. Introducing customers to the alluring world of cask lager can be an invigorating experience, offering a deeper appreciation for the artistry and quality that this unique format embodies.
